Clutch Assembly Components
1 - Nut (8÷11 Nm); 2 - Main cylinder; 3 - Nut (16÷22 Nm); 4 - Bolt for fastening the pedal support bracket; 5 - Bolt of fastening of an emphasis of a pedal; 6 - Sensor-switch opening the starter circuit (12÷15 Nm); 7 - Nut of the fixing bolt (16÷22 Nm); 8 - Return spring; 9 - Pin; 10 - Axis of the pedal; 11 - Cotter pin; 12 - clutch pedal; 13 - Executive cylinder; 14 - Driven disk; 15 - Clutch basket assembly (pressure plate); 16 - Bolt (30÷40 Nm); 17 - Air valve (6÷10 Nm); 18 - Clutch release lever; 19 - Hydraulic hose; 20 - Release bearing
All models equipped with a manual transmission use a single-disk, dry-type clutch with a diaphragm spring. Friction hub (slave) The clutch disc is equipped with longitudinal splines that engage with the splines of the trunnion of the transmission input shaft. The friction and pressure plates of the clutch are held in contact with each other due to the force developed by the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate.
The clutch is released hydraulically. The release drive consists of a clutch pedal equipped with a master hydraulic cylinder reservoir, connecting lines and an actuating cylinder acting on the clutch release lever, and a release bearing.
When the pedal is depressed, hydraulic pressure rises in the system path, the resulting effect of which is applied to the outer end of the clutch release lever. When the lever is turned, the fingers of its shaft rest against the release bearing, which, in turn, shifting, is pressed against the petals of the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate in the clutch basket. Bending, the spring breaks the contact of the pressure and driven discs, releasing the latter.
When servicing the clutch, in addition to replacing components that have obvious mechanical damage, some initial checks must be made (it is assumed that the gearbox is in good condition):
- a) First of all, you should make sure that the free play and the height of the clutch pedal are correctly adjusted - if necessary, make the appropriate adjustments (see Section Clutch pedal adjustment).
- b) Check fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir (see chapter Settings and ongoing maintenance). If necessary, make adjustments by adding the required amount of hydraulic fluid and carefully inspect the system for signs of leaks (see Sections Removal and installation of the clutch master cylinder and Removal and installation of the clutch slave cylinder). When emptying the reservoir of the master cylinder, it is necessary to remove air plugs from the hydraulic path (see Section Removal of air from the hydraulic path of the clutch release drive), then check the proper operation of the clutch;
- c) Run the engine at normal idle to estimate clutch shift time. Make sure the gear is in neutral and release the clutch pedal. Now depress the clutch pedal and, after waiting a few seconds, engage reverse gear. Switching should not lead to a rattle and other extraneous noises, with a high degree of probability indicating a malfunction of the driven disk or clutch basket assembly;
- d) To check that the clutch is fully disengaged, apply the parking brake and start the engine. While holding the clutch pedal at a height of about 13 mm above the floor, shift the gearbox between first and reverse gears. The presence of interference when switching the lever indicates a malfunction of the components of the shutdown mechanism. Assess the stroke of the clutch slave cylinder. With the pedal fully depressed, the pusher should move forward by a noticeable amount, otherwise the hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder should be checked;
- e) Perform a visual check of the condition of the axle bushings at the top of the clutch pedal. Make sure that there are no signs of jamming and excessive axle play;
- f) Climbing under the car, make sure that the clutch release lever is firmly seated on the ball pin of the spherical support.