Car fault diagnostics (Nissan Primera P10)

This Section offers the simplest scheme for identifying the causes of malfunctions and failures occurring in vehicle components and systems. Failures and their possible causes are divided into groups according to their relationship to specific components or systems of the vehicle, such as the engine, cooling system, etc., and the text also provides references to Chapters and Sections related to these issues.

Remember that successfully completing a troubleshooting is not some black magic reserved for experienced professional mechanics, but a combination of knowledge and a patient, systematic approach to investigating the problem. Always move from simple to complex, take each check to its logical conclusion, and try not to miss the obvious - anyone can forget to fill the fuel tank or leave the lights on overnight.

Finally, you should always try to get a clear picture of the progression of the fault and take appropriate steps to prevent a recurrence. If the electrical equipment failure occurred due to a poor contact quality, check the condition of all other contacts and electrical connectors in the system at the same time. If the same fuse continues to blow several times in a row, there is no point in replacing it further - you should try to find out the cause of the failure. Remember that the failure of a minor component may be a sign of a malfunction of a more important unit or the entire system.

Engine

The engine does not turn over when trying to start it

1. There is corrosion of the battery terminals or the fastening of the wire tips on them is loose. Check the condition of the terminals and tips. Tighten the terminal clamps, remove traces of corrosion if necessary.

2. The battery is discharged or defective. If the cable ends are found to be clean and securely connected to the battery terminals, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, then turn on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If these electrical equipment do not function, the battery is discharged.

3. The transmission is not properly set to the "P" position (AT) or to neutral gear (manual transmission), or the clutch is not fully depressed.

4. The wiring in the starting system circuit is broken or the wires are loose at the terminals. Check the condition of the wires, terminals and electrical connectors of the battery, starter solenoid and ignition switch.

5. The starter pinion is jammed in the flywheel ring gear. On models equipped with a manual transmission, set it to gear and, pushing the car by hand, turn the engine over. Remove the starter at the first opportunity and check the condition of the pinion and flywheel ring gear.

6. The starter traction relay is faulty (Chapter Engine electrical system).

7. The starter is faulty (Chapter Engine electrical system).

8. The ignition switch is faulty.

The engine turns over but does not start

1. The fuel tank is empty.

2. There is a malfunction in the fuel injection system (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).



3. The battery is discharged (the engine turns over too slowly). Check the operation of the electrical equipment (see section The engine does not turn over when trying to start it).

4. The battery terminal connections are corroded or loose (see section The engine does not turn over when trying to start it).

5. The fuel pump is faulty (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).

6. Damaged or excessively damp ignition system components (Chapter Engine electrical system).

7. Worn or faulty spark plugs or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter Engine electrical system).

8. The wiring of the electrical circuit of the starting system is broken or disconnected, or the fastening of the wires at the terminals is loose (see section The engine does not turn over when trying to start it).

9. The ignition coil circuit wiring is broken or disconnected, or the wires are loose at the coil terminals (Chapter Engine electrical system).

The starter operates without turning the engine

1. The starter gear is jammed. Remove the starter (Chapter Engine electrical system) and check its condition.

2. The starter gear teeth or flywheel ring gear are worn or damaged.

Difficulty starting a cold engine

1. The battery is discharged or not sufficiently charged (see section The engine does not turn over when trying to start it).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Fuel and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).

Difficulty starting a hot engine

1. The air filter is blocked (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).



2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Fuel and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).

3. Fuel does not reach the injectors of the injection system (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).

The starter engages too noisily or with difficulty

1. The starter gear teeth or flywheel ring gear are worn or damaged.

2. The starter mounting bolts are missing or their tightening force has weakened.

The engine starts but immediately stalls

1. The electrical wiring is faulty or the wires on the terminals of the distributor, coil or generator are loose.

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Fuel and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).

3. There are vacuum losses through the gasket surfaces of the intake manifold or fuel injection unit. Make sure that the fastening bolts/nuts are tightened securely, check the fact and quality of fastening on their fittings on the intake manifold of all vacuum hoses. Check the condition of the hoses and their correct connection (specifically to your fittings).

The stability of the engine at idle speed is impaired

1. There is a loss of vacuum. Make sure that the mounting bolts/nuts are tight, check the fact and quality of fastening on their fittings on the intake manifold of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the running engine with a stethoscope or a section of fuel hose. The presence of a hissing sound will help to identify the source of the vacuum "leak". A solution of soapy water can be used for checking no less effectively.



2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Fuel and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).

3. The crankcase ventilation system valve is blocked (Chapter Engine).

4. The air filter is blocked (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).

5. The fuel pump does not supply sufficient fuel to the injection system injectors (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).

6. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket. Measure the compression pressure in the engine cylinders.

7. The working projections of the camshaft cams are worn out (Chapter Engine).

There are misfires when the engine is idling

1. Spark plugs are worn or dirty, or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly (Chapter Engine electrical system).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Fuel and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).

3. The spark plug wires are faulty (Chapter Engine electrical system).

4. There are losses of vacuum in the intake manifold or through hose connections (Section The stability of the engine at idle speed is impaired).

5. Insufficient or unevenly distributed compression pressure in the cylinders. Perform a compression measurement (Chapter Engine).

There are misfires when the car is moving in gear

1. The fuel filter is blocked or the fuel system is contaminated (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).

2. The spark plugs are faulty or dirty, or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly (Chapter Engine electrical system).



3. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Fuel and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).

4. There is a defect in the spark plug wires (Chapter Engine electrical system).

5. Components of the exhaust gas toxicity reduction system are faulty.

6. Insufficient or uneven distribution of compression pressure between cylinders. Remove the spark plugs and measure the compression pressure (Chapter Engine).

7. The ignition system is faulty (Chapter Engine electrical system).

8. There are vacuum losses at the throttle body, intake manifold or through vacuum hoses (Section The stability of the engine at idle speed is impaired).

The engine stalls

1. Idle speed adjustment is incorrect.

2. The fuel filter is blocked and/or moisture or dirt has entered the fuel system (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).

3. There is a failure of the power supply system components or sensors (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).

4. Components of the exhaust gas toxicity reduction system are faulty.

5. The spark plugs are faulty or dirty, or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly (Chapter Routine care and maintenance). Also check the condition of the spark plug wires (Chapter Engine electrical system).

6. There are losses of vacuum at the throttle body or through the vacuum hoses (Section The stability of the engine at idle speed is impaired).

The engine does not develop full power

1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Fuel and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).



2. The distributor shaft play is excessive. At the same time, check the condition of the rotor, cover, wires, etc. (Chapter Engine electrical system).

3. The air cleaner is clogged. Clean or replace.

4. The spark plugs are faulty or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly (Chapter Routine care and maintenance).

5. The ignition coil is faulty (Chapter Engine electrical system).

6. The AT fluid level does not meet the requirements (Chapter Automatic transmission).

7. Clutch slips (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).

8. The fuel filter is blocked and/or dirt/moisture has entered the fuel system (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).

9. The wrong type of fuel has been added. Fill the tank with fuel with the required octane rating.

10. Insufficient or uneven compression pressure across the cylinders. Perform a compression test, the analysis of the results of which allows you to identify the presence of valve leaks and/or a leak in the cylinder head gasket (Chapter Engine).

There are pops in the carburetor/shots in the exhaust system

1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Fuel and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).

2. There is a defect in the secondary circuit of the ignition system (destruction of spark plug insulators or defects in spark plug wires) (Chapter Engine electrical system).

3. The fuel injection system needs adjustment or its components are excessively worn (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).

4. There are vacuum losses at the throttle body, intake manifold or through vacuum hoses (Section The stability of the engine at idle speed is impaired).



5. Valves are stuck (Chapter Engine).

6. The order of connecting the spark plug wires is violated (Chapter Engine electrical system).

When accelerating or driving uphill, sounds of mixture detonation occur

1. The wrong type of fuel has been added. Fill the tank with fuel with the required octane rating.

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Fuel and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).

3. The wrong type of spark plugs are installed. Check the spark plugs and their wires for damage (Chapter Engine electrical system).

4. There are losses of vacuum (Section The stability of the engine at idle speed is impaired).

Pre-ignition takes place (the engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off)

1. Excessively high idle speed (Chapter Engine).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Fuel and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).

3. Excessive engine operating temperature. Possible causes of this malfunction may be a decrease in the coolant level (Chapter Cooling and heating systems), thermostat failure, radiator blockage, or water pump failure (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

Engine electrical equipment

The battery does not hold a charge

1. The alternator drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is incorrect (Chapter Engine electrical system).

2. The electrolyte level is insufficient or the battery is very discharged (Chapter Engine electrical system).

3. There is corrosion of the battery terminals or the fastening of the wire tips on them has become loose (Chapter Engine electrical system).

4. The generator does not provide the required charging current (Chapter Engine electrical system).

5. The charging circuit wiring is broken or otherwise damaged, or the wires are loose at the terminals (Chapter Engine electrical system).

6. A short circuit in the wiring creates a constant leakage of current generated by the battery to ground (see Chapter Engine electrical system Explanatory notes to electrical connection diagrams).

7. There is an internal defect in the battery.

The ignition indicator light does not go out

1. There is a fault in the charging circuit or generator (Chapter Engine electrical system).

2. The generator drive belt is damaged or worn out, or its tension adjustment is incorrect (Chapter Engine electrical system).

The ignition indicator lamp does not light when the ignition key is turned to the "ON" position (when the ignition is turned on)

1. The control lamp on the instrument panel has burned out or otherwise failed (Chapter On-board electrical equipment).

2. The generator is faulty (Chapter Engine electrical system).

3. There is a defect in the printed circuit board, wiring inside the instrument cluster unit, or lamp socket (Chapter On-board electrical equipment).

Power supply system

Excessive fuel consumption

1. The air filter element is dirty or blocked (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Fuel and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).

3. Insufficient tire pressure or incorrect size tires installed.

There are fuel leaks and/or a smell of gasoline

1. There are leaks in the fuel supply lines or vent lines (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).

2. The fuel tank is full. Refuel only until the gun switches off automatically.

3. There are leaks of vapors from the power supply system lines (Chapter Fuel and exhaust systems).

Cooling system

Overheat

1. Not enough coolant in the system (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is not adjusted correctly (Chapter Engine).

3. The internal channels of the radiator are blocked or the radiator grille is dirty (blocked) (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

4. The thermostat is faulty (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

5. Broken or cracked fan blades (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

6. The radiator cap does not hold pressure. Perform a pressure test of the cap (contact a service station).

Hypothermia

1. The thermostat is faulty (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. Temperature meter readings are inaccurate.

External coolant leaks

1. The hoses are damaged or destroyed as a result of aging of the material or their fastening on the fittings has become loose. Replace the hoses and/or tighten the clamps of their fastening (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. The water pump seals are damaged. In this case, the coolant will leak through the inspection hole in the pump body (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

3. There are leaks from the internal channels of the radiator or the side reservoir. Professional repair of the radiator is required (for a description of the removal procedure, see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

4. There are leaks through the engine drain plug (Chapter Engine) or squeeze plugs of water galleries (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

Internal coolant leaks

Note: Internal coolant leaks are usually detected by checking the engine oil condition. Inspect the dipstick blade and the inside surfaces of the cylinder head(s) for traces of water and oil foaming.

1. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket. Perform a pressure test of the cooling system.

2. There are cracks in the cylinder walls or in the head casting. To check, disassemble the engine (Chapter Engine).

Coolant losses occur

1. Too much coolant has been added to the system (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. The coolant boils away as a result of engine overheating (see section Pre-ignition takes place (the engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off)).

3. There are internal or external coolant leaks (see sections External coolant leaks and Internal coolant leaks).

4. The radiator cap is faulty. Check the cap with pressure.

Coolant circulation is disrupted

1. The water pump is not functioning properly. The easiest way to check that the pump is functioning is to pinch the upper radiator hose while the engine is idling. If you feel a jolt of fluid inside the hose when you release it, the pump is functioning properly (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. The cooling system is clogged. Drain the coolant, flush the system and fill it with fresh mixture (Chapter Cooling and heating systems). If such a need arises, remove the radiator (Chapter Cooling and heating systems) and perform a reverse flow flush.

3. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is not adjusted correctly (Chapter Engine).

4. Thermostat is stuck (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

Clutch

The clutch does not disengage (the manual transmission control lever does not move freely into reverse gear and back when the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor)

The clutch disc is bent or damaged (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).

The clutch is slipping (engine speed increases without increasing vehicle speed)

1. The clutch disc is contaminated with oil or its friction linings are worn out. Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the condition of its components.

2. The clutch disc has not been properly run in. It may take 30 to 40 normal car starts to completely run in a new disc.

3. The pressure plate/clutch basket is worn out (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).

There is a strong vibration when the clutch is engaged

1. The clutch disc is oily. Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the condition of its components. Eliminate any leaks found.

2. The splines of the driven disk hub are worn out (clutch disc). Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the condition of its components.

3. The pressure plate/clutch basket or flywheel is bent. Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the condition of its components and flywheel.

A squealing or rattling noise occurs when the clutch is fully engaged (pedal released)

The clutch release bearing is seized. Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the bearing condition. Remove all burrs and burrs, and lubricate the bearing before reinstalling.

A squealing or rattling noise occurs when the clutch is fully disengaged (the pedal is pressed)

1. The release bearing is worn or damaged (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).

2. The springs are worn or damaged (or aperture blades) pressure plate in the clutch basket (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).

The clutch pedal remains depressed to the floor after it is released

1. The rod or release bearing is jammed. Check the condition of the rod, remove the clutch components if necessary.

2. Make sure the correct type of pedal stop is installed.

Manual transmission (MT)

When the gearbox is in neutral, extraneous noises occur while the engine is running

1. The input shaft bearing is worn out.

2. The bearing of the driven shaft drive gear is damaged.

3. The intermediate shaft bearings are worn out.

4. The intermediate shaft axial play adjustment washers are worn or damaged.

Extraneous noises occur in any position of the manual transmission

1. Any of the above reasons and/or:

2. There is not enough transmission oil in the gearbox (his level dropped).

Extraneous noises occur in a particular gear

1. The gear teeth of this transmission are worn, damaged or chipped.

2. The synchronizer of this gear is worn out or damaged.

The gearbox "jumps" out of the highest gear

1. The gearbox mount on the clutch housing has become loose.

2. Dirt has gotten between the gearbox and the engine, or the gearbox has shifted relative to the engine.

Complications when shifting gears

1. The clutch is not fully depressed (disengaged).

2. The shift rod is damaged, loosened or out of adjustment. Carefully check the condition of the components and replace any defective ones if necessary.

There are transmission oil leaks

1. There is too much transmission oil in the gearbox. Drain the excess if necessary.

2. The speedometer drive gear seal needs to be replaced.

Automatic transmission (AT)

Note. Due to the complexity of the AT design, full diagnostics of its faults and repair of components are beyond the skill level of the average amateur mechanic. If any problems with the operation of the AT other than those listed below occur, the car should be taken to a car service workshop or a dealership for inspection and repair.

Common problems associated with the operation of the switching mechanism

1. The following can be attributed to failures associated with a malfunction of the shift rod adjustment:

• The engine can be started in transmission positions other than "P" (Park) and "N" (Neutral).
• The transmission position indicator reading differs from the actual gear selected.
• The vehicle is moving with the transmission in position "P".

2. Adjust the gear shift rod (Chapter Manual transmission, differential and final drive).

The transmission slips, shifts with difficulty, makes strange noises, or does not allow the vehicle to move when shifted into one of the forward or reverse gears

There are many possible causes for the problems listed in the title, but only one of them falls within the competence of the amateur mechanic - incorrect transmission fluid level.

Before taking your car to a car service workshop, check the level and condition of the transmission fluid (Chapter Automatic transmission). Adjust the level according to requirements Specifications or change the liquid together with the filter. If the situation does not improve, seek help from specialists.

There are transmission fluid leaks

1. AT fluid is dark red. Its leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can be carried to the transmission housing by the oncoming air flow.

2. To identify and locate the source of the leak, first remove all traces of dirt and grease from the transmission housing. Use a suitable degreaser and/or steam clean. Then drive the vehicle for a short time at low speed (so that traces of a leak are not carried away by the oncoming flow far from its source). Stop, jack up the car and visually inspect to determine the source of the leak. Most often, these are:

• Transmission Oil Pan: Tighten the mounting bolts and/or replace the oil pan gasket.
• Fluid fill tube: Replace the rubber seal where the tube enters the transmission case.
• Transmission Fluid Lines: Tighten fittings or replace lines.
• Vent Tube: Transmission is overfilled and/or has water in it.
• Speedometer Connection: Replace the O-ring where the speedometer drive cable enters the transmission case.

Bridges

Extraneous noises

1. Normal road noise. Cannot be corrected.

2. Tire noise. Check the condition of the treads and the inflation pressure of the tires.

3. The rear wheel bearings are worn or damaged, or their tightening force has weakened.

Vibrations

Check the condition of the rear wheel bearings by jacking up the corresponding corners of the car one by one and rotating the wheel manually. Listen to the sounds coming from the bearing. Remove the bearings and check their condition.

Oil leaks

The drive shaft seals are damaged (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).

Brake system

Note: Before you come to a final conclusion about a problem with the brake system, make sure that the tires are in good condition and inflated to the required pressure, the front wheel alignment is correct, and the vehicle is not unevenly loaded.

The car "pulls" to one side when braking

1. The brake pads/shoes on one side of the vehicle are damaged or contaminated with oil. Check the condition of the pads/shoes (Chapter Brake system).

2. There is excessive wear of the friction material of the brake pads/shoes on one side of the vehicle (Chapter Brake system).

3. The suspension components have become loose or disconnected. Check the condition of the component supports, tighten the fasteners to the required force (Chapter Routine care and maintenance).

4. The drum/caliper assembly of one of the brake mechanisms is faulty. Remove the drum or caliper and inspect it for signs of piston seizure and other damage (Chapter Brake system).

5. The sliding blocks of the floating caliper brackets of the front disc brake mechanism are not evenly lubricated. Remove the caliper and lubricate the sliding blocks (Chapter Brake system).

There are extraneous sounds (high frequency squeal) when braking the car

1. The disc brake pads are worn out. Replace the pads immediately (in both mechanisms) (Chapter Brake system). If the brake pad linings are completely worn out, you should also check the condition of the brake discs (Chapter Brake system).

2. Friction linings are dirty or oily. Replace pads/shoes.

3. The wrong type of pads are installed. Replace them.

Excessive brake pedal travel

1. There is a partial failure of the brake system. Check the entire system (Chapter Brake system), make the necessary corrections.

2. The brake fluid level in the master cylinder is insufficient. Check the level (Chapter Brake system), if necessary, top up and bleed the system (Chapter Brake system).

3. The rear brakes are out of adjustment. Perform a series of braking operations while reversing the vehicle. If this does not help to eliminate the malfunction, remove the drums and check the condition of the self-adjusting mechanisms (Chapter Brake system).

When you press the brake pedal, you feel a soft ride

1. Air has entered the hydraulic system. Bleed the brakes (Chapter Brake system).

2. Flexible brake hoses are faulty. Check the condition of all hoses and lines in the system. Replace components if necessary.

3. The fastener of the master brake cylinder has become loose.

4. The master cylinder is faulty (Chapter Brake system).

To brake the car, you need to apply excessive force to the pedal

1. The brake booster is not functioning properly (Chapter Brake system).

2. The brake shoes/pads are excessively worn. Check and replace if necessary (Chapter Brake system).

3. One or more caliper pistons or wheel cylinders are seized. Check and make necessary corrections (Chapter Brake system).

4. The friction linings of the brake pads/shoes are contaminated with oil, grease or brake fluid. Check and replace if necessary (Chapter Brake system).

5. New pads/shoes have been installed and have not yet been broken in. It will take some time for them to become accustomed to the discs/drums.

The pedal sinks to the floor with minimal resistance

1. The fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir has dropped excessively due to wheel cylinder leaks, caliper piston leaks, loose fastenings, disconnected or damaged brake lines, etc. Check the entire system and make necessary corrections.

2. The sealing cuffs of the master brake cylinder are worn out (Chapter Brake system).

There is pulsation in the brake pedal when braking the car

1. The caliper does not move properly due to improper installation or obstruction. Remove and check (Chapter Brake system).

2. The disc or drum is faulty. Remove (Chapter Brake system) and check for excessive lateral runout, ovality and non-flatness. Resurface the disc or drum or replace them with new ones.

Suspension and steering

The car pulls to one side when moving

1. Tires are unevenly inflated.

2. There is a defect in the tires.

3. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (Chapter Routine care and maintenance).

4. It is necessary to adjust the front wheel alignment angles.

5. The front brakes are seized (Chapter Brake system).

There is jerking, twitching or vibration

1. Wheel balance is broken or rims are out of ovality. Have them balanced at a tire shop.

2. The rear wheel bearings are worn out, their tightening force has weakened, or their adjustment is out of order (Chapter Suspension and steering).

3. Shock absorbers or other suspension components are worn or damaged (Chapter Suspension and steering).

There is excessive rocking of the car or "digging" of the nose when turning or braking

1. The shock absorbers are faulty. Replace the entire set (Chapter Suspension and steering).

2. Springs and/or other suspension components are broken or weak. Check the condition of the components (Chapter Suspension and steering).

The steering wheel is too hard to turn

1. The fluid level in the power steering system reservoir has dropped excessively (Chapter Suspension and steering).

2. The tires are not inflated correctly.

3. The steering linkage joints are not sufficiently lubricated (Chapter Suspension and steering).

4. The front wheel alignment angles are out of adjustment.

5. The power steering does not develop the required power (see section There is excessive wear on the treads (not in one particular area)).

There is excessive play in the steering

1. The tightening force of the front wheel bearings has weakened (Chapter Suspension and steering).

2. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (Chapter Suspension and steering).

The power steering system does not develop the required force

1. The power steering pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is incorrect (Chapter Suspension and steering).

2. The hydraulic fluid level has dropped excessively (Chapter Suspension and steering).

3. The hydraulic system hoses or lines are clogged. Check and replace if necessary.

4. Air has entered the hydraulic system. Bleed the system (Chapter Suspension and steering).

There is excessive wear on the treads (not in one particular area)

1. The tires are not inflated correctly.

2. Wheel balance is disturbed. Contact a tire shop

3. Wheel disks are damaged. Check and replace if necessary.

4. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (Chapter Suspension and steering).

There is excessive wear on the outer edge of the treads

1. The tires are not inflated correctly.

2. Turns are made too sharply. Reduce speed.

3. The front wheel alignment angles are out of adjustment (excessive convergence). Contact a workshop for professional adjustment.

4. The suspension arm is bent or twisted (Chapter Suspension and steering).

There is excessive wear on the inner edge of the treads

1. The tires are not inflated correctly.

2. The front wheel alignment angles are out of adjustment (divergence). Make adjustments at a car service workshop.

3. Steering components are damaged or loose (Chapter Suspension and steering).

There is localized wear of the tread

1. Wheel balance is disturbed.

2. The disks are damaged or bent. Check and replace if necessary.

3. There is a defect in the tires.