Remember that successfully completing a root cause troubleshooting is not black magic reserved for experienced professional mechanics, but is determined by a combination of specific knowledge and a patient, systematic approach to investigating the problem. You should always move from simple to complex, bring each check to its logical conclusion and try not to miss obvious facts - anyone can forget to fill the fuel tank or leave lights on at night.
And finally, you should always try to get a clear picture of the development of the malfunction and take appropriate steps to prevent recurrence. If the failure of the electrical equipment occurred due to a violation of the quality of the contact, check at the same time the condition of all other contacts and electrical connectors of the system. If the same fuse continues to blow several times in a row, there is no point in replacing it further - you must try to find out the cause of the failure. Remember that the failure of a minor component may be a sign of a malfunction of a more important node or the entire system.
Engine
Engine won't crank when trying to start it
1. The battery terminals are corroded or the wire ends are loose. Check the condition of the terminals and lugs. Tighten the terminal clamps, if necessary, remove traces of corrosion.
2. Discharged or defective battery. If the wire lugs are found clean and securely attached to the battery terminals, turn the ignition key to the ON position, then turn on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If this electrical equipment does not function, the battery is dead.
3. The transmission is poorly installed in position "P" (AT) or into neutral (RKPP), or the clutch is not fully depressed.
4. The wiring in the starting system circuit is broken or the wires are loose on the terminals. Check the condition of the wires, terminals and electrical connectors of the battery, the starter traction relay and the ignition switch.
5. Starter gear stuck in flywheel ring gear. On models equipped with a manual transmission, put it in gear and, manually pulling it into the car, turn the engine over. At the first opportunity, remove the starter and check the condition of the gear and flywheel ring gear.
6. Defective starter relay (Chapter Engine electrical system).
7. Faulty starter (Chapter Engine electrical system).
8. Faulty ignition lock.
Engine cranks but won't start
1. Fuel tank is empty.
2. There is a malfunction in the fuel injection system (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
3. Low battery (engine cranks too slowly). Check the functioning of the electrical equipment (see Section Engine won't crank when trying to start it).
4. Battery terminal connections are corroded or loose (see Section Engine won't crank when trying to start it).
5. Faulty fuel pump (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
6. Damaged or excessively wet components of the ignition system (Chapter Engine electrical system).
7. Worn or defective spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap (Chapter Engine electrical system).
8. Broken or disconnected wiring of the electric circuit of the starting system or loosened fastening of the wires on the terminals (see Section Engine won't crank when trying to start it).
9. Broken or disconnected ignition coil circuit wiring or loose wires at coil terminals (Chapter Engine electrical system).
The starter operates without cranking the engine
1. Stuck starter gear. Remove the starter (Chapter Engine electrical system) and check its status.
2. Worn or damaged starter gear teeth or flywheel crown.
Difficulty starting a cold engine
1. Low or insufficient battery (see Section Engine won't crank when trying to start it).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power supply and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).
Difficulty starting a hot engine
1. Blocked air filter (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power supply and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).
3. Fuel does not reach the injection system injectors (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
Starter engagement is too noisy or difficult
1. Worn or damaged starter gear teeth or flywheel crown.
2. Lost starter mounting bolts or loose tightening force.
Engine starts but immediately stalls
1. Faulty wiring or loose wires at the terminals of the distributor, coil or generator.
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power supply and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).
3. Vacuum loss occurs through the sealing surfaces of the intake manifold or fuel injection unit. Make sure that the fixing bolts/nuts are securely tightened, check the fact and quality of fastening on your fittings on the inlet pipeline of all vacuum hoses. Check the condition of the hoses and the correct connection (exactly to your fittings).
The stability of the engine at idle is broken
1. There are vacuum losses. Make sure that the fixing bolts/nuts are securely tightened, check the fact and quality of fastening on your fittings on the inlet pipeline of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the running engine with a stethoscope or a piece of fuel hose. The presence of a hissing sound will reveal the source «leaks» vacuum. No less effective can be used for checking a solution of soapy water.
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power supply and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).
3. Blocked crankcase ventilation valve (Chapter Engine).
4. Blocked air filter (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
5. The fuel pump does not supply enough fuel to the injection system injectors (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
6. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket. Measure the compression pressure in the engine cylinders.
7. Camshaft lobes worn out (Chapter Engine).
Misfiring occurs when the engine is idling
1. Worn or dirty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap (Chapter Engine electrical system).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power supply and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).
3. Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter Engine electrical system).
4. There is a loss of vacuum in the intake manifold or through the hose connections (Chapter The stability of the engine at idle is broken).
5. Insufficient or unevenly distributed compression pressure in the cylinders. Take a compression test (Chapter Engine).
Misfiring occurs when vehicle is in gear
1. Blocked fuel filter or contaminated fuel system (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
2. Faulty or dirty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap (Chapter Engine electrical system).
3. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power supply and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).
4. There is a defect in the spark plug wires (Chapter Engine electrical system).
5. Components of system of decrease in toxicity of the fulfilled gases are faulty.
6. Insufficient or unevenly distributed compression pressure between the cylinders. Remove spark plugs and measure compression pressure (Chapter Engine).
7. Faulty ignition system (Chapter Engine electrical system).
8. Vacuum loss occurs at the throttle body, intake manifold, or through the vacuum hoses (Chapter The stability of the engine at idle is broken).
Engine stalls
1. Idle speed adjustment is broken.
2. Blocked fuel filter and/or moisture or dirt in the fuel system (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
3. There is a failure of the components of the power system or sensors (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
4. Components of system of decrease in toxicity of the fulfilled gases are faulty.
5. Faulty or dirty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap (Chapter Ongoing care and maintenance). Also check the condition of the spark plug wires (Chapter Engine electrical system).
6. Vacuum loss occurs at the throttle body or through the vacuum hoses (Chapter The stability of the engine at idle is broken).
The engine does not develop full power
1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power supply and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).
2. Excessive backlash of the distributor shaft. At the same time, check the condition of the slider, cover, wires, etc. (Chapter Engine electrical system).
3. Air cleaner clogged. Clean or replace.
4. Faulty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap (Chapter Ongoing care and maintenance).
5. Faulty ignition coil (Chapter Engine electrical system).
6. Does not meet the requirements of the liquid level AT (Chapter automatic transmission).
7. Clutch slips (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).
8. Blocked fuel filter and/or dirt/moisture in the fuel system (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
9. Wrong grade of fuel filled. Fill the tank with fuel with the required octane rating.
10. Insufficient or uneven compression pressure across the cylinders. Carry out a compression test, the analysis of the results of which reveals the presence of valve leaks and / or a leak in the cylinder head gasket (Chapter Engine).
Popping occurs in the carburetor / shots in the exhaust system
1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power supply and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).
2. There is a defect in the secondary circuit of the ignition system (destruction of spark plug insulators or defects in spark plug wires) (Chapter Engine electrical system).
3. The fuel injection system needs adjustment or its components are excessively worn (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
4. Vacuum loss occurs at the throttle body, intake manifold, or vacuum hoses (Chapter The stability of the engine at idle is broken).
5. Stuck valves (Chapter Engine).
6. The order of connecting candle wires is violated (Chapter Engine electrical system).
Mixture knock sounds when accelerating or going uphill
1. Wrong grade of fuel filled. Fill the tank with fuel with the required octane rating.
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power supply and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).
3. Wrong type spark plugs installed. Check the spark plugs and their wires for damage (Chapter Engine electrical system).
4. Vacuum losses occur (Chapter The stability of the engine at idle is broken).
There is an ignition (the engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off)
1. Excessively high idle (Chapter Engine).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power supply and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).
3. Excessive engine operating temperature. Possible causes of this violation may be a decrease in the coolant level (Chapter Cooling and heating systems), thermostat failure, radiator blockage, or water pump failure (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
Engine electrical equipment
Battery not «keeps» charge
1. The alternator drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is not adjusted (Chapter Engine electrical system).
2. Insufficient electrolyte level or severely discharged battery (Chapter Engine electrical system).
3. The battery terminals are corroded or the wire lugs are loose on them (Chapter Engine electrical system).
4. The generator does not provide the required charge current (Chapter Engine electrical system).
5. Broken or otherwise damaged charging circuit wiring or loose wires at the terminals (Chapter Engine electrical system).
6. A short circuit in the wiring creates a permanent leakage of current generated by the battery to ground (see chapter Engine electrical system Explanatory notes to the wiring diagrams).
7. There is an internal defect in the battery.
The ignition control lamp does not go out
1. There is a malfunction of the charging circuit or generator (Chapter Engine electrical system).
2. Damaged or worn alternator drive belt or alternator tension adjustment (Chapter Engine electrical system).
The ignition control lamp does not light up when the ignition key is turned to "ON" (when the ignition is turned on)
1. Burnt out or otherwise failed control lamp on the instrument panel (Chapter Onboard electrical equipment).
2. Faulty generator (Chapter Engine electrical system).
3. There is a defect in the printed circuit board, wiring inside the instrument cluster unit or lamp socket (Chapter Onboard electrical equipment).
Supply system
Excessive fuel consumption
1. Dirty or blocked air filter element (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power supply and exhaust systems and Engine electrical system).
3. Insufficient tire pressure or wrong size tires fitted.
There are fuel leaks and/or a smell of gasoline
1. There are leaks in the fuel lines or vent lines (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
2. Fuel tank full. Refuel only until the gun automatically shuts off.
3. There are leaks of vapors from the lines of the power system (Chapter Power supply and exhaust systems).
Cooling system
Overheat
1. Not enough coolant in the system (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
2. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged or its tension is not adjusted (Chapter Engine).
3. The internal channels of the radiator are blocked or dirty (blocked) radiator grille (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
4. Faulty thermostat (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
5. Broken or cracked fan blades (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
6. The radiator cap does not hold pressure. Perform a pressure test on the cap (contact a service station).
Hypothermia
1. Faulty thermostat (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
2. The readings of the temperature meter are inaccurate.
External coolant leaks
1. Damaged or destroyed as a result of aging of the material, the hoses or loosened their fastening on the fittings. Replace hoses and/or tighten hose clamps (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
2. Damaged water pump seals. In this case, the coolant will seep through the control hole in the pump housing (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
3. There are leaks from the internal channels of the radiator or side reservoir (ov). Professional Radiator Repair Needed (for a description of the removal procedure, see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
4. There are leaks from the engine drain plug (Chapter Engine) or squeeze plugs of water galleries (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
Internal coolant leaks
Note. Internal coolant leaks are usually identified by checking the condition of the engine oil. Inspect the feeler blade and inside surfaces of the cover (lids) cylinders for traces of water and oil foaming.
1. There are leaks from the cylinder head gasket. Perform a pressure test on the cooling system.
2. There are cracks in the cylinder walls or in the head casting. Disassemble the engine to check (Chapter Engine).
Loss of coolant occurs
1. Too much refrigerant in the system (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
2. The cooler boils away as a result of engine overheating (see Section There is an ignition (the engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off)).
3. There are internal or external refrigerant leaks (see Sections External coolant leaks and Internal coolant leaks).
4. Faulty radiator cap. Check the cover with pressure.
Refrigerant circulation interrupted
1. The water pump is not functioning properly. The easiest way to verify the operation of the pump is to pinch the upper radiator hose while the engine is idling. If a push of liquid is felt inside the hose when the hose is released, the pump is functioning properly (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
2. The patency of the cooling system is broken. Drain coolant, flush system and refill with fresh mix (Chapter Cooling and heating systems). If necessary, remove the radiator (Chapter Cooling and heating systems) and backflush it.
3. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged or its tension adjustment is broken (Chapter Engine).
4. Stuck thermostat (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
Clutch
Clutch won't disengage (the manual transmission control lever does not move freely into the reverse gear position and back when the clutch pedal is depressed to the floor)
Bent or damaged clutch disc (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).
Clutch slips (engine speed increases without increasing vehicle speed)
1. The clutch disc is contaminated with oil or its friction linings are worn out. Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the status of its components.
2. The clutch disc did not break in properly. It may take 30 to 40 normal starts of the car to finally break in a new disc.
3. Worn pressure plate/clutch basket (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).
Vibration occurs when clutch is engaged
1. Oily clutch disc. Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the status of its components. Repair any leaks found.
2. Driven disc hub splines worn (clutch disc). Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the status of its components.
3. Bent pressure plate/clutch basket or flywheel. Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the condition of its components and flywheel.
Squealing or rattling occurs when the clutch is fully engaged (pedal released)
Clutch release bearing stuck. Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the condition of the bearing. Remove all burrs and nicks and lubricate the bearing before reinstalling.
Squealing or rattling occurs when the clutch is fully disengaged (pedal depressed)
1. Worn or damaged release bearing (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).
2. Worn or damaged springs (or aperture blades) pressure plate in the clutch basket (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).
Clutch pedal remains depressed to the floor after releasing it
1. Stuck rod or release bearing. Check up a condition of draft, if necessary remove components of coupling.
2. Make sure the correct type of pedal stop is installed.
Manual gearbox (RKPP)
When the gearbox is set to neutral, extraneous noises occur during engine operation
1. Worn input shaft bearing.
2. Drive shaft bearing damaged.
3. Worn intermediate shaft bearings.
4. Washers for adjusting the axial play of the intermediate shaft are worn or damaged.
Extraneous noises occur in any position of the manual transmission
1. Any of the above reasons and/or:
2. Insufficient amount of gear oil is filled in the gearbox (his level dropped).
Extraneous noise occurs in any particular gear
1. Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth of this gear.
2. The synchronizer of this transmission is worn out or damaged.
Going on «jumping off» Gearbox with top gear
1. Loose fastening of the box on the clutch housing.
2. Dirt has got between the gearbox boat and the engine or the gearbox has shifted in relation to the engine.
Complications occur when shifting gears
1. Not fully squeezed out (turned off) clutch.
2. The shift rod is damaged, its fastening is loose or the adjustment is broken. Make a thorough check of the condition of the components, if necessary, replace the defective ones.
Transmission oil leaks
1. Too much gear oil in the gearbox. Drain excess if necessary.
2. The speedometer drive gear oil seal needs to be replaced.
Automatic transmission (AT)
Note. Due to the complexity of the AT design, complete diagnostics of its malfunctions and repair of components are beyond the qualifications of an average amateur mechanic. In the event of any problems other than those listed below, the functioning of the AT, the car should be driven away for inspection and repair to a car service workshop or a dealership of the company.
General problems associated with the functioning of the switching mechanism
1. The number of failures associated with a violation of the adjustment of the shift rod includes the following:
- The engine can be started in transmission positions other than "P" (parking) And "N" (neutral).
- The transmission position indicator reading is different from the actual gear selected.
- The vehicle is moving with the transmission in position "P".
2. Adjust the shift rod (Chapter Manual transmission, differential and final drive).
Transmission slips, shifts hard, makes strange noises or does not move the car when set to one of the forward or reverse gears
There are many possible causes of the problems listed in the title, but only one of them falls under the competence of an amateur mechanic - an incorrect transmission fluid level.
Before driving the car to a car service workshop, check the level and condition of the transmission fluid (Chapter automatic transmission). Adjust the level as required Specifications or change the fluid along with the filter. If the situation does not improve, seek help from specialists.
Transmission fluid leaks
1. AT liquid has a dark red color. Traces of its leaks should not be confused with traces of impellent oil, which can be carried to the transmission crankcase by the oncoming air flow.
2. To identify and locate the source of the leak, first remove all traces of dirt and grease from the transmission boat. Use a suitable degreaser and/or steam clean. Then drive the car for a short trip at low speed (so that traces of the leak are not carried away by the oncoming flow far from its source). Stop, jack up the vehicle and locate the source of the leak by visual inspection. Most often these are:
- Transmission sump: Tighten mounting bolts and/or replace sump gasket.
- Fluid Fill Tube: Replace the rubber seal where the tube enters the transmission case.
- Transmission Fluid Lines: Tighten fittings or replace lines.
- Vent tube: Transmission overfilled and/or water ingested.
- Speedometer connection: Replace the O-ring where the speedometer cable enters the transmission case.
Bridges
Extraneous noise
1. Ordinary road noise. Not subject to correction.
2. Tire noise. Check the condition of the treads and tire inflation pressure.
3. Worn or damaged rear wheel bearings or loose torque.
Vibrations
Check the condition of the rear wheel bearings by alternately jacking up the corresponding corner of the car and rotating the wheel manually. Listen for sounds coming from the bearing. Remove the bearings and check their condition.
Oil leaks
Damaged drive shaft seals (Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).
Brake system
Note. Before concluding that there is a problem with the braking system, check that the tires are in good condition and inflated to the correct pressure, that the front wheel alignment is not out of alignment, and that the vehicle is not loaded unevenly.
Vehicle under braking «leads away» to one side
1. Damaged or oil-contaminated brake pads / shoes from one of the sides of the car. Check the condition of the pads/shoes (Chapter Brake system).
2. There is excessive wear of the friction material of the pads / shoes of the brake mechanism from one of the sides of the car (Chapter Brake system).
3. Loose or detached suspension components. Check the condition of the component supports, tighten the fasteners with the required force (Chapter Ongoing care and maintenance).
4. Defective drum / caliper assembly of one of the brake mechanisms. Remove the drum or caliper and inspect it for signs of piston seizure or other damage (Chapter Brake system).
5. The sliding calipers of the front disc brake caliper are unevenly lubricated. Remove the caliper and grease the sliders (Chapter Brake system).
There are extraneous sounds (high frequency squeal) when braking the car
1. Worn disc brake pads. Replace pads immediately (in both mechanisms) (Chapter Brake system). If the pad linings are completely worn out, the condition of the brake discs should also be checked (Chapter Brake system).
2. Friction linings are dirty or oily. Replace pads/shoes.
3. Wrong pads installed. Make a replacement.
Excessive brake pedal travel
1. There is a partial failure of the brake system. Check the whole system (Chapter Brake system), make the necessary corrections.
2. Insufficient brake fluid level in the master cylinder. Check level (Chapter Brake system), if necessary, top up and bleed the system (Chapter Brake system).
3. Adjustment of back brake mechanisms is broken. Perform a series of braking while reversing the vehicle. If this does not solve the problem, remove the drums and check the condition of the self-adjusting mechanisms (Chapter Brake system).
When depressing the brake pedal, there is a feeling of softness
1. Air has entered the hydraulic system. Bleed the brakes (Chapter Brake system).
2. Faulty flexible brake hoses. Check the condition of all hoses and lines in the system. Replace components if necessary.
3. Weak fasteners of the main brake cylinder.
4. Faulty master cylinder (Chapter Brake system).
To brake the car, you need to apply excessive force to the pedal
1. The vacuum brake booster is malfunctioning (Chapter Brake system).
2. Excessively worn brake shoes/linings. Check and replace if necessary (Chapter Brake system).
3. One or more caliper pistons or wheel cylinders are stuck. Check and make necessary corrections (Chapter Brake system).
4. Pad/shoe linings contaminated with oil, grease, or brake fluid. Check and replace if necessary (Chapter Brake system).
5. Installed and have not yet run in new pads / shoes. It takes some time for them to burn in to the discs/drums.
The pedal sinks to the floor with minimal resistance
1. Leaky wheel cylinder (ov), caliper pistons (ov), loosening, disconnection or damage to the brake lines, etc. violations, the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir has dropped excessively. Check the entire system, make the necessary corrections.
2. Worn sealing cuffs of the main brake cylinder (Chapter Brake system).
There is a pulsation of the brake pedal when braking the car
1. The caliper does not move properly as a result of improper installation or obstruction. Remove and check (Chapter Brake system).
2. Faulty disc or drum. Remove (Chapter Brake system) and check for excessive lateral runout, as well as the appearance of out-of-roundness and out-of-flatness. Regroove the disc or drum or replace them with new ones.
Suspension and steering
Vehicle pulls to one side when moving
1. Tires are unevenly inflated.
2. There is a tire defect.
3. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (Chapter Ongoing care and maintenance).
4. Front wheel alignment required.
5. Stuck front brakes (Chapter Brake system).
There are jerks, jerks or vibrations
1. The wheels are out of balance or the discs are oval. Have the tire balanced at a tire shop.
2. Rear wheel bearings worn, loose or out of adjustment (Chapter Suspension and steering).
3. Worn or damaged shock absorbers or other suspension components (Chapter Suspension and steering).
There is excessive rocking of the vehicle or «burying» his nose when cornering or braking
1. Defective shock absorbers. Replace the whole set (Chapter Suspension and steering).
2. Broken or loose springs and/or other suspension components. Check the status of the components (Chapter Suspension and steering).
Steering wheel too tight
1. The fluid level in the reservoir of the power steering system has dropped excessively (Chapter Suspension and steering).
2. Tires not properly inflated.
3. Insufficiently lubricated steering gear joints (Chapter Suspension and steering).
4. The adjustment of the angles of installation of the front wheels is broken.
5. The hydraulic booster does not develop the required power (see Section Excessive tread wear (not in one area)).
There is excessive steering play
1. The tightening force of the front wheel bearings has weakened (Chapter Suspension and steering).
2. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (Chapter Suspension and steering).
The power steering system does not develop the proper force
1. The power steering pump drive belt is worn or damaged or its tension is not adjusted (Chapter Suspension and steering).
2. Hydraulic fluid level too low (Chapter Suspension and steering).
3. The patency of the hoses or lines of the hydraulic system is broken. Check and replace if necessary.
4. Air has entered the hydraulic system. Bleed the system (Chapter Suspension and steering).
Excessive tread wear (not in one area)
1. Tires not properly inflated.
2. The wheels are out of balance. Contact a tire shop
3. Damaged wheel rims. Check and replace if necessary.
4. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (Chapter Suspension and steering).
Excessive tread wear on outer edge
1. Tires not properly inflated.
2. Too sharp turns are made. Reduce your speed.
3. The adjustment of the angles of installation of the front wheels is broken (excessive convergence). Contact a workshop for professional adjustment.
4. Bent or twisted suspension arm (Chapter Suspension and steering).
Excessive tread wear on the inside edge
1. Tires not properly inflated.
2. The adjustment of the angles of installation of the front wheels is broken (divergence). Carry out the adjustment at a car service workshop.
3. Steering components damaged or loose (Chapter Suspension and steering).
There is localized tread wear
1. The wheels are out of balance.
2. Damaged or bent discs. Check and replace if necessary.
3. There is a tire defect.