Table of contents: Engine oil ↓ Coolant - checking and adjusting the…↓ Brake fluid ↓ Checking the level and leaks of…↓ Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) ↓ Windscreen and headlight lens washer…↓
Note: Regardless of the scheduled inspection intervals, do not allow fluids to leak under the vehicle, as such leaks indicate a problem that should be addressed immediately.
Liquids are an integral part of the lubrication, cooling, windshield washer and braking systems. Due to the gradual consumption and contamination of liquids during normal vehicle operation, they should be replaced periodically. Top up only with the appropriate fluids Specifications liquids.
Note: Whenever checking the fluid level, the vehicle must be on a level, horizontal surface.
Engine oil
Engine oil consumption can be up to 0.5 l per 1000 km. Higher oil consumption is a sign of wear of the oil-deflecting caps and/or piston rings or engine shaft seals.
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Visual inspection of leaks
If the engine is oily and has high oil consumption, check the following areas for leaks:
- Engine oil pan gasket;
- Engine Oil Drain Plug Seal;
- Engine Oil Pressure Seal D/V;
- Oil filter gasket;
- Front gaskets for block and cylinder head covers;
- Gasket between the block and the cylinder head;
- Cylinder head cover gasket;
- Oil filler cap seal;
- Crankshaft and camshaft oil seals.
Since when there is a leak, the oil spreads over a large surface area of the engine, it is difficult to immediately determine its location. To detect leaks, proceed as follows:
1. Clean the engine by covering the generator and fuse box with a plastic bag, spraying the engine with a regular cold cleaner and after a short time washing with water.
2. Sprinkle the mating surfaces and seals on the outside of the engine with lime or talc.
3. Check the engine oil level and correct it if necessary.
4. In order to warm up the oil, take the car for a test drive – the viscosity of the heated oil will decrease, and it will appear faster in the places of leaks.
5. Finally, examine the engine by shining a lamp on it, locate the leaks and eliminate them.
Checking and adjusting the level
The engine oil level is checked using the dipstick (No. 10 in the illustration Engine Compartment Components), installed in the guide tube.
The engine oil level should be measured on a cold engine, or no earlier than 10 minutes after it has been turned off.
Note: If you start measuring immediately after turning off the engine, some oil will remain in the upper part of the engine and the measurement results will be erroneous.
1. Remove the dipstick from the guide and wipe the blade dry with a clean rag or paper towel. Insert the dipstick all the way back into the guide and remove it again.

2. The height of the oil-wetted section of the dipstick will correspond to the oil level in the engine. This level should be in the grooved area on the dipstick, otherwise the oil level should be adjusted. If the oil goes beyond the upper edge of the grooved area of the dipstick, the oil should be pumped out, because otherwise the engine seals and catalytic converter may be damaged.
3. To add oil, remove the oil filler cap (#2 in the Engine Compartment Components illustration). After adding oil, wait a few minutes for the oil level to stabilize, then remove the dipstick and check the level again. If necessary, adjust again. If dirt is found on the oil filler cap, wash it with gasoline. Finally, close the oil filler cap tightly.
4. Checking the oil level is an important preventive measure and should be done as often as possible, and definitely before each long trip. In addition, you should also pay attention to the condition of the oil: if it is milky or if drops of water can be seen in its composition, the cylinder head gasket may be leaking or there may be a crack in the cylinder head or block, as a result of which coolant is getting into the oil. In this case, the engine should be repaired immediately. Each time you measure the oil level, before wiping the dipstick blade, run your thumb and forefinger over it. If you find dirt or metal particles stuck to the dipstick, the oil should be changed (see section Changing engine oil and oil filter).
Coolant - checking and adjusting the level and condition
Warning! Do not allow antifreeze to come into contact with your skin or the painted surfaces of your vehicle. If this does happen, wash off the antifreeze immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is extremely toxic, so do not leave it unattended in an open container or spilled on the floor: children or animals may be attracted by its sweet smell and may drink it.
Caution! Do not remove the expansion tank filler cap or the radiator cap until the engine has completely cooled down!
The vehicles in question are equipped with a compensating cooling system with excess pressure. The plastic expansion tank is located in the engine compartment on the left (No. 7 in the illustration Engine Compartment Components) and is connected to the radiator by a hose. As the engine warms up during operation, the expanding coolant (coolant) fills the tank. When the engine cools down, the coolant automatically flows back into the cooling system, which ensures that a constant coolant level is maintained.
The coolant level should be checked regularly, at least every month, and before each long trip.
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1. The coolant level in the expansion tank fluctuates depending on the engine temperature: when the engine is cold (temperature is about 20 degrees.) it should be between the "MIN" and "MAX" marks on the transparent side of the tank, and as the engine warms up, the level should approach the upper mark or slightly exceed it. If this is not the case, let the engine cool down, then remove the expansion tank cap and adjust the level OJ.
2. To fill the cooling system, be sure to use the one specified in Specifications mixture.
Note: If it is necessary to fill the cooling system on the road, then in summer you can use clean water, but not another type of antifreeze. The required type of antifreeze can be added later, but as quickly as possible.
3. If the coolant level drops rapidly, visually inspect the cooling system for leaks - these are usually detected by a white or rust-colored coating in the area surrounding the leak.
4. Check the condition of the hoses and the reliability of their fastening to the pipes; replace damaged hoses and clamps (see also Section Checking the condition and replacing hoses and tubes in the engine compartment, localizing leaks). Cracks are easier to detect if you pinch the hose.
Note: Exceeding the specified pressure value may cause radiator failure.

5. Pressure test the cooling system. To do this, remove the radiator cap and install a pressure-injecting device in its place. When the pressure 1.57 atm there should be no coolant leaks through the radiator.
6. Check the expansion tank cap seal.

7. If no leaks are found, check the radiator cap for leaks. To do this, first pull the vacuum valve on the cap and release it - it should return to its original position. Make sure that the valve seat is not contaminated or damaged. Then lubricate the radiator cap seal with coolant and connect a pressure-injecting device to the cap. If the valve opening pressure does not meet the requirements Specifications, replace the radiator cap.
8. You should also check the condition of the coolant – it should be relatively clean. If the liquid is brown or rusty, it should be drained, the cooling system should be flushed and filled with a new mixture (see section Replacing the coolant). Even if the coolant looks normal, the corrosion inhibitors it contains lose their effectiveness over time, so the coolant should be replaced periodically.
9. To check the frost resistance of the coolant, use a hydrometer.
Brake fluid
Warning! Brake fluid may cause damage to your eyes or painted surfaces if it comes into contact with them. Do not use brake fluid that has been open for a long time or that is more than one year old. Brake fluid tends to absorb moisture from the air, which can degrade its properties and lead to a dangerous loss of braking efficiency. Use only the specified Specifications type of brake fluid. Mixing different types of fluids is not allowed.
The brake fluid reservoir is located on the left side of the engine compartment, near the bulkhead (No. 4 in the illustration Engine Compartment Components), and is divided into two parts, each for its own brake circuit. Transparent walls of the reservoir allow the brake fluid level to be observed from the outside. To warn of a low brake fluid level, there is a corresponding K/L in the instrument cluster (see Chapter Controls and operating techniques). However, it is recommended to check the fluid level regularly.

1. The liquid level with the lid closed should be between the "MIN" and "MAX" marks on the walls of the tank. Make sure that the level does not fall below the "MIN" mark.
2. If the level is low, first wipe the top of the reservoir and the cap with a clean rag to prevent dirt from getting into the brake system after removing the cap. Add fluid to the correct level, but do not overfill.
3. While the reservoir cap is removed, check the brake fluid and reservoir for contamination. If there are any rust particles, dirt or water droplets, the fluid should be replaced. After bringing the brake fluid level to the desired level, make sure the cap is installed level to prevent fluid leakage and/or dirt ingress.
4. The fluid level in the brake master cylinder (MBC) will drop slightly as a result of wear of the brake pad friction linings. There is no need to top it up as long as the level remains near the "MIN" mark – it will rise after replacing the linings. A very low level may indicate worn brake pads – check them (see section Checking the brake system and clutch).
5. If the brake fluid level drops constantly, immediately check the entire brake system for leaks. Typically, worn caps in the wheel cylinders are the cause. Inspect the brake lines, hoses and nipples along with the calipers, wheel cylinders and master cylinder (see section Checking the brake system and clutch). Brake fluid is also used in the clutch drive, so you should check its lines and slave cylinder for damage and loose connections.
6. If the reservoir is empty or nearly empty when checking the fluid level, the brake system must be checked for leaks and bled (see sections Checking the brake system and clutch and Replacing brake fluid and bleeding the brake system).
Checking the level and leaks of manual transmission oil

1. Unscrew the inspection hole plug and check the transmission oil level of the manual transmission with your finger – the level should reach the lower edge of the hole.
2. Add oil if necessary.
Note: Do not start the engine with the inspection hole open.
3. Tighten the inspection hole plug to the required torque.
Note: Use a new plug sealing ring.
4. Low transmission oil level indicates leaks in the following areas:
- Between the cylinder block and the manual transmission (manual transmission input shaft seal);
- Between the drive shaft and the manual transmission;
- Inspection hole plug;
- Drain plug.
5. Localization of transmission oil leaks is carried out in the same way as localization of engine oil leaks.
Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
Attention! When working with the AT, observe special cleanliness, as even minor contamination can lead to malfunctions in the AT.
Note: The correct ATF level is critical to the proper functioning of the AT. Both too low and too high ATF levels will negatively affect the performance of the AT.
The ATF level depends on its temperature, for ease of checking it is recommended to use a special diagnostic device.
1. Warm up the engine and check for ATF leaks.
2. Park the car on a level horizontal surface and set the AT mode selector to position "R".
3. With the engine idling and the ATF temperature between 30 and 50 degrees, check the ATF level using the marks on the "cold" side of the dipstick.
Location of engine oil dipstick
ATF dipstick marks
4. If necessary, adjust the ATF level. You can add fluid through the filler tube. After adjusting, check the ATF level again.
5. Drive the car for 5 minutes in urban conditions and check the level of ATF, which has already been warmed up to a temperature of 50÷80 degrees – now on the "hot" side of the dipstick.
6. Along with the level, the condition of the ATF should also be checked: if it has a dark reddish-brown tint or smells of burning, the ATF should be replaced. If you are not sure that the condition of the ATF is correct, compare it with fresh fluid by color and smell.
7. If the ATF contains particles indicating wear of the AT, also replace the ATF and, if equipped, the oil cooler.
Windscreen and headlight lens washer fluid
Windshield washer fluid should be added to the reservoir (No. 11 in the illustration Engine Compartment Components) through the filler neck.
In temperate climates, you can use plain water to wash your windshields, but it is recommended to add a glass cleaner to it. The reservoir should be no more than two-thirds full to allow for expansion of the water when it freezes. In cold climates, you should use a special windshield washer antifreeze that lowers the freezing point of the liquid. It is usually sold in concentrated or ready-made form.
Attention! It is not allowed to use antifreeze for the cooling system as an additive to increase the frost resistance of the washer fluid. Mix concentrated antifreeze with water in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions on the packaging.

